Cotoletta alla Milanese

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About This Dish

Cotoletta alla Milanese is an iconic dish from Milan in Italy’s Lombardy region, dating back to the 12th century. Traditionally prepared using a bone-in veal rib chop (costoletta), the meat is pounded thin, breaded with a coating of flour, beaten eggs, and fine breadcrumbs, then fried in clarified butter until golden and crisp on the outside while remaining tender inside.

The authentic version is distinguished by the presence of the bone and a signature thinness that allows for quick, even cooking. Unlike its Austrian cousin, the Wiener Schnitzel, the Milanese tradition specifically calls for clarified butter rather than oil, which imparts a distinctive nutty richness to the dish. The Milanese nobility historically favored this preparation for its elegant simplicity and luxurious flavor.

Cotoletta alla Milanese is traditionally served very hot with nothing more than lemon wedges to cut through the richness, though modern interpretations might include a light arugula salad dressed with lemon and Parmigiano-Reggiano on top or alongside. It remains one of the defining dishes of Milanese cuisine and appears on menus throughout the city, from home kitchens to high-end restaurants.

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Why This Dish Works

Cotoletta alla Milanese achieves culinary perfection through the contrast between its crisp exterior and juicy interior. The clarified butter used for frying reaches higher temperatures than whole butter without burning, creating a golden crust through optimal Maillard reaction. Meanwhile, the bone helps regulate cooking temperature and adds flavor, while the thinness of the pounded meat ensures quick cooking that seals in moisture before the protein can toughen.

Key Success Factors

• Meat Selection: Use high-quality, bone-in veal rib chops at least 1-inch thick before pounding
• Proper Pounding: Flatten to an even 1/4-inch thickness without tearing the meat
• Dry Ingredients: Ensure breadcrumbs and flour are completely dry for proper coating adhesion
• Butter Temperature: Maintain clarified butter at 160-170°C (320-340°F) for optimal browning without burning

Common Pitfalls

Many recipes incorrectly substitute regular oil for the traditional clarified butter, missing the distinctive nutty flavor that defines this dish. Another common mistake is using boneless cuts or failing to pound the meat thin enough, which results in uneven cooking and a tough texture. Also, pressing down on the cutlet while cooking forces out valuable juices that keep the meat tender.

How to Judge Authenticity

When reviewing recipes, look for these markers of authenticity:

1. Specifies bone-in veal rib chop (costoletta)
2. Calls for clarified butter (not olive oil or other fats)
3. Includes pounding the meat to even thinness
4. Minimal seasoning (primarily salt) in the breading mixture
5. Serves with simple accompaniments (just lemon wedges, not heavy sauces)

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